Reviewed by Member “Gunny”…
If you’re running tracks (or larger than stock tires … or even smaller than stock tires) … your speedometer is incorrect. The mileage is also incorrect on your odometer. And even if you have the BRP Track Module installed on your bike, the speedometer and odometer are probably still incorrect. But both can be corrected with a “Little Black Box” called a SpeedoHealer.
The SpeedoHealer is an easily programmable “Black Box” that will correct both the Speedometer and Odometer readings of your Can-Am ATV, and at relatively small price. The little unit has two memory banks (so you could use memory “A” for your tires, and memory “B” for your tracks), is small in size, and is an easy “Plug & Play” hook up device.
If you don’t want to do the calculations yourself (directions are provided on how to do the calculations with the provided instruction info), the seller will do them for you. The seller has told me his website will have an “online calculator” soon.
Interested ?? Then continue to read on !!
BTW … the seller is also looking to expand this product for other brands of ATV’s. If you have tracks and like the idea of having your speedometer and odometer provide you true readings, give the seller a call. (Name and ph numbered provided below)
When I heard about the unit, I thought, “Why not give it a try and do some testing ??”. I bought one of these SpeedoHealers and have been testing it for the last couple months, and I’m here to tell you, this little unit is way cool. It’s also less expensive than the BRP Track Module I bought when I bought the bike.
The BRP Track Module is also supposed to provide a little more power assist to the power steering. If it does, I could never tell, especially in deep snow. I’ve had the BRP Track Module for three years now. Comparing the speed and mileage on the bikes instrument panel to my GPS, the speed and mileage have always been off. And there is nothing I could do to correct this.
I have a 2011 Outlander 800r MAX-XT. When I bought the bike I bought the track module at the same time, but, I’m running the Camoplast Tatou 4S tracks I took off my Grizzly. These tracks have 17 tooth drive sprockets which measure 13.5 inch in dia. (approx). The Camoplast Tatou 4S tracks for an 800 Can-Am come with 18 tooth drive sprockets measuring 14.5 inches in dia. (approx.) from what I’m told; I’ve never seen a set in person. I talked to a Can-Am owner who just bought the Apache 360 tracks and he said they have 17 tooth drive sprockets and are 13.5 inches in dia. (approx..), same as my Tatou 4S tracks.
I heard about this “Little Black Box” called the SpeedoHealer in the late fall. So I contacted Robert Freed at “Metric PowerSports” (734-395-5057). When I ordered the unit I was still running my tires, however, we received a lot of snow early, so before I was able to “Dial In” the unit with my tries, I switched over to tracks. Therefore, the majority of my testing has been with tracks, but the principal will be the same when I switch back to tires. Robert has been great to work with. He does all the calculations for me and explained how to program it even though the included instructions explain how to do both. He has also called me back to see how the unit has been working for me.
Now if I can do the programming with this little unit, anybody can do it! HOWEVER, when talking to Robert, it really helps if you provide him with the correct diameter of either your tires or the drive sprockets of your tracks. See, I am constantly telling guys I have 17 tooth drive sprockets, so when I started talking to Robert about diameters, I started by telling him my drive sprockets were 17 inches in diameter. It took us a while to figure out why my Speedometer and odometer and the GPS where so far apart in their readings. There’s a big difference between telling Robert your drive sprockets are 17 inches in diameter and their actual diameter being 13.5 inches.
Anyway, as I mentioned, I’ve been talking to Robert about what numbers to program in, then going riding and testing out the little unit. At first, I was watching both my speedometer AND my odometer, when in fact, the odometer is the main function I wanted correct. If the odometer is correct, then the speedometer will be correct.
There are a lot of variables with both. For instance, if you are stationary on your bike, your odometer does not read any distance traveled, but the GPS will (even if it’s just small jumps of 10 or 20 feet). So what I did was clear the trip meter on the bike, have my right hand on the throttle, and with the left hand, reset the data fields on the GPS. As soon as they were refreshed, I gave the bike throttle. This way I didn’t gain any distance when the bike wasn’t moving.
I also found it pretty difficult to main a constant steady speed with the GPS. My speedometer speed wouldn’t change, however, the GPS speed reading would move up or down depending on how smooth the terrain was, if I moved my hand much, etc. Later on in my testing, I focused on getting the odometer reading of the bike and the mileage on the GPS to be the same.
Bottom line: If you want to see the true speed you’re moving on your speedometer and have the true miles you have traveled recorded in the bike’s odometer, then give Robert a call and order yourself a SpeedoHealer.
BTW … no, I’m not getting anything out this. I’m just very impressed with this little unit over the BRP Track Module. I was also able to match my odometer reading and the mileage on the GPS.
Following are some photos of what to expect:
This first one, you are seeing is “t” for “Test”. To enter the “Test” mode, press and hold the “SEL” button while turning the key on. You should perform this test to verify the SpeedoHealer is properly connected to the quad’s wiring harness.
After the test, you can press “SEL”, cycle power to the unit only (disconnect then reconnect the four prong plug), or cycle power on the quad to clear the “Test” mode prior to programming. NOTE: If using the key to cycle power, wait for the dash to go blank before turning the key back on.
Prior to entering the programming mode, you need to select which memory bank you want to program; “A” or “B”. You do this by pressing and holding the “SET” button. It will display the value for which bank is currently active. If you continue to keep it pressed for another second, it will switch to the other memory bank.
To enter the programming mode, you need to press both buttons (SEL and SET) at the same time until you see an “L”. Sorry, I didn’t take a photo of this.
You then have to “Set” a “Plus” or “Minus” value (depending on if you need to raise or lower your reported speed) and then the numbers you calculate or asked Robert for. You scroll thru each value with the “SET” button, and use the “SEL” button to “Select” the value you want.
Here’s how it will look when inputting your values. I began with the following values, first the “A” bank memory and then the numbered value of “-41.0”. (This an example number only)
Press the “SEL” button one more time to exit the programming mode. An “o” will be displayed to indicate programming is “over”. The display will then scroll thru the settings you just programed in (just as it does upon powering up each time). If any changes are required, you just start over. NOTE: If programming in a Positive value, you will have to enter 5 digits, not 3.
Unplug the SpeedoHealer (or turn the key off), plug the four prong back in and verify the correct memory bank and numbers are displayed, and reattach the SpeedoHealer to its Velcro mount. In my case, reinstall the seat, and go for a ride to see if the speed and mileage agree with your GPS. Any changes required can be made by following the initial programming steps.
Anyway, this is an awesome “Little Black Box” …